This shop has been compensated by Collective Bias, Inc. and its advertiser. All opinions are mine alone. #JumpIntoSummer #CollectiveBias
I know I’m not the only Mom who is tired of having everything packed up and ready to roll, and one of your kids is hopping around on one foot yelling that they can’t find their other flip flop. Somehow we lose them, leave them places, end up with someone else’s, or, quite often, only have one. I can’t tell you how many left flip flops I have that I keep holding on to in hopes that it’s right will show up someday. So far, that hasn’t happened.
As I was thinking about that, and about all our upcoming pool adventures, I realized I could easily personalize my kiddos flip flops with some vinyl and my good hair dryer.
For this project, you really only need some crafting vinyl (I used 651 thickness, the permanent vinyl) and my hair dryer. If you have a cutting machine, you can simply type out your kids name and size it to your flip flops (I kept mine to 5 inches long for the kids flip flops), then send it to your machine. Weed out the parts you don’t want, and put on the transfer tape. If you don’t have a vinyl cutter, they sell lots of vinyl letters at stores that you can put together to make names or designs.
Stick it to your flip flops, and rub really really well. I use a credit card to really press the edges down and rub the top until I know it’s stuck. Now, flip flops usually have a bumpy texture, plus we want this to last a long time, so you are going to grab your hair dryer and heat the vinyl up for about 10 seconds until it’s nice and hot and then rub and press down on it really well with a piece of fabric (you don’t want to rub it with your bare skin because it will be hot!)
Ta-da! Personalized flip flops that no one will accidentally steal when you’re at the pool! I even made some for myself. The real fun though is kicking off your shoes and jumping in!
Like I’ve mentioned before, I taught swim lessons for three years, plus we spend a lot of time at the pool and lake, and so I’m pretty picky when it comes to life jackets or swim assist for my kids. I want something that is coast-guard approved for a higher degree of safe swimming and something that allows my boys the freedom to move and swim and learn to play in the water. My sister always used Puddle Jumper® life jackets for her kids, so naturally when my oldest got old enough to swim in a life jacket, Puddle Jumper® life jackets is our go-to.
This year we’ve got three in life-jackets and so as the pool season started up, I went to Target and let Rhett pick out his own Puddle Jumper® life jacket. He’s right in the weight range (30-50lbs) and is ready to start really learning to swim and have fun in the water.
Puddle Jumper® life jackets are US Coast Guard approved life jackets, with adjustable buckles in the back to ensure the right fit, and they are a life jacket I trust. Rhett loved the fun, 3-D designs and was so excited to pick out the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles® one. I love that he can learn to swim with it on.
These jackets are great, they stay on through all the jumping in, running around and swimming that my kids can do!
See that buckle in the back? I love that I can adjust it to fit, and he can’t reach it so we don’t have worry about him taking his lifejacket off.
The summer is just starting for us and now with our Puddle Jumper® life jackets and personalized flip flops, we can’t wait to get out and make memories and have fun at the pool and lake. We are in the water as much as possible in the summer. What are your favorite things to take along to the pool? Do you have a favorite pool toy or beach bag? I’d love to hear it, we’re always looking for more great pool-side supplies!
This shop has been compensated by Collective Bias, Inc. and its advertiser. All opinions are mine alone. #RoofedItMyself #CollectiveBias
This is part 2 of my Farmhouse inspired Playhouse build how-to series. You can check out the step-by-step on how to build the deck and playhouse frame here or use this tutorial to learn how to roof your already existing playhouse or shed or doghouse or any other outdoor structure you can dream up!
When we left off on the playhouse build yesterday, we had the deck built, the frame of the playhouse done, and we were moving up to the roof. I knew when I was planning out this project that I wanted a roof that was going to look good, but also be durable and water-tight. This playhouse will be a focal part of our backyard (because it’s adorable), and I wanted it to match the nice-ness of our home and beautify a neglected part of our yard. Many of my friends have playhouses for their kids and they have had to hang tarps above them, and I didn’t want a blue plastic tarp to be the first thing you see in our yard, I wanted a pretty, nicely roofed playhouse. I knew shingles were the perfect roofing and since my husband and brother roofed our own home two years ago, I knew that GAF shingles were the way to go. They not only look good, but are durable and will last years beyond when our children have long out-grown their cute little playhouse. I watched their online how-to videos, and decided to take the roof on all by myself while everyone else was at work.
If you’re considering roofing something yourself but are scared, go online and watch some videos. Seriously, I can do this myself, you definitely can. I made sure to shop for supplies after the plywood was on because I wanted to make sure that I measure correctly and bought enough supplies while I was there. It’s so easy to make mistakes when measuring, so measure twice so you only have to shop once!
A drip edge if your project needs one
Proper clothes to be safe (gloves, closed toe shoes, etc)
I headed out to our Lowe’s with the boys to grab our supplies. I had looked at some pictures online and thought I knew what I wanted but things can look so different in person so I was impressed when I saw the large GAF display they had with samples of every kind and color of shingle that GAF makes so you can compare and see exactly what you want. I decided to go with GAF’s Timberline® Natural Shadow® in Shakewood. It had great dimension and some nice warm tones that give that rustic farmhouse feel I wanted and would look great with the warm wood tones I’m using. I also learned while looking at their display that they stand behind their products and offer some great warranty options.
So after I got all my supplies home, I got back to work, and yall, I roofed that playhouse all by myself, top to bottom. The first thing you need to do is measure your roof, and cut enough FeltBuster® roofing felt to cover it. This was so easy because it has a grid on it for easy cutting and installation. I gave myself a few inches of extra just to make sure I had it all covered.
Once I had my pieces cut, I lined them up with the plywood, and nailed them in with 1” plastic cap nails. If you make sure that your felt is straight at his step, it will make hanging your shingles a breeze because you can simply line them up with the lines on the Feltbuster®. If you have any extra overhang on the sides, trim it flush with the plywood.
Next, I did a starter row of shingles. Your first row will actually go on upside down. That’s right, just grab a sheet of shingles, give it a 180 turn, and your going to nail right in between the glue strip (the black shiny line across the shingle) and the chalk line. Make sure you give at least a 1/2” overhang over your plywood. In each of your shingle sheets, you want to use four of the roofing nails.
You’ll want to continue that row, making sure it’s straight, until you get to the end. You can let the extra hang off, we’ll trim it all off at the end.
You’re next row will be right on top of the starter row, but this time you’re shingles will be place the right way- this is the first row you’ll see in the finished product. You are going to want to offset your first shingles from the starter row because you don’t want the seams to match up, that will cause water leakage, so I moved down about six inches and then started nailing in my first row.
Once you’ve got that first row done, you can just keep moving up the roof, making sure to line up the next rows the same and watch your seam lines to make sure they always offset. I also tried to pay attention to making sure my rows were offset so the tabs didn’t line up either. You want it to look variegated which is easy to do because the granular technology gives it that beautiful texture and color variety.
I was really worried about getting crooked with my shingles, and that I would step back and the roof look crazy but the chalk lines on the shingles and the lines on the Feltbuster® made it so easy to make sure that I was going straight all the way across each line.
You want to make sure to go high enough that your shingles will be covered by the ridge gap, and then you can do the other side (look how good it looks!).
Once both sides are done, you can move on to the ridge gap. Buying the TimberTex® Premium Ridge Cap Shingles makes it so easy to do the ridge cap. Simply grab one to get started, lay it over the peak, making sure to cover the highest row of shingles on each side evenly, and lining it up with the edge of the roof, and nail in place.
Once you have it in place, you’ll put another one over the black part of it, and nail it in place, and keep going until you get to the edge of your roof.
For your last ridge cap shingle, you don’t want to see the black edge, so you’ll measure how long you need it to be to get to the end, and then you can either cut it with a knife, or simply score it and bend in half a few times until it is easily torn. If it ends up being a little too long still, you can trim it when you trim the rest of your shingles. For this last piece, you will nail right into the shingle and then caulk over the nail with a roofing grade caulk to keep it water tight.
The last step is to take a hooked razor blade (or some people use a small saw, like a multi tool) and trim the excess shingles off of your roof. It is much easier to get a straight edge if you use a chalk line to mark the line of where they should be trimmed and then cut them. I know I said I did this all myself, but since my father-in-law came over while I was finishing up, I did one side and let him do the other.
Our little playhouse wasn’t even done yet, and a neighbor came over that evening to tell me how good it looked. I loved how professional the Timberline® shingles looked, and how easy it was for a total beginner to install them. The very last step that we did for the roof was actually the last part of the entire playhouse build, but I want you to see the finished roof and the last piece-a puppy weathervane to match our cute girl we just got-
Doesn’t it look amazing? The roof really is the first thing you see and it looks sooo good! I don’t mean to toot my own horn, but can you believe I did that myself?
If you’ve been considering roofing something yourself, check out GAF’s products and do it! I was really surprised how simple it was. I did the roof myself in about an hour, and that was a couple distractions. I can think of so many fun backyard projects that I could shingle myself, especially now that I know how do-able it is and have seen the variety of supplies they have at Lowe’s. Anybody out there planning any fun summer builds or re-dos? I’d love to see them or hear what you’re working or dreaming of! Can you believe what a difference the shingles alone made on this playhouse?
Yesterday was Sawyer’s birthday, and a week ago was Rhett’s. We have been talking about building them a playhouse for years, ever since we went to a friends house who had one and they played in it for hours. I’ve been saving ideas here and there of playhouse features I loved and wanted to incorporate into our own playhouse when we got the chance as well as work in what the boys liked most about my friends playhouse. I had a sizeable stack of 2x4s left over from various projects and scored a load of free 2x6s and then got the chance to work with an awesome company (more on that tomorrow) and knew it was the perfect time to build it. I knew I couldn’t take on a project this big alone, and luckily my Dad and Mom agreed to help me, and we built this adorable gardenshed/farmhouse inspired playhouse and finished it yesterday on Sawyer’s birthday. I’m going to break it down into a three part series, so today starts of with part one-framing!
(I realize that as you read this tutorial it will look like I say a lot of “we” but doesn’t look like I do much, but I promise I helped, somebody’s got to step out to take the pictures haha but my Dad really is awesome and deserves to be in all of them like he is!)
When I went to the Magnolia Silos in Waco back in March, I saw the garden shed at the Seed and Supply Store, and wanted our boys playhouse to look just like it. The color were just right, the shape of it was cute, I just needed to translate what I like on it into playhouse form and work with those supplies I already hand on hand. I drew about a million different mock-ups before deciding on a final plan, which of course I changed again the night before (and now I’m so glad I did, the original plan was bigger and it would have been huge).
I bought three 10 foot long 4x4s that we used as the bottom of the deck. The only flat areas of our yard get flooded by water when it rains, meaning it would have to go up on higher ground where it is very uneven, so we needed to build something sturdy and flat for the playhouse to sit on. The 2×6’s that I got from my brother’s work for free were perfect for the deck floor. The playhouse is 4×5 with a couple feet of roof overhang, so we decided to make the deck 10 feet long (since we had that long of 4×4’s) and 7 feet wide. We built the deck on the level part of the yard by laying out the 4X4s where they needed to be and then nailing down the 2X6s on top of them, and then cutting off the excess wood (the 2×6’s were originally 12 feet long each). We decided to just build half of it there on the flat ground to get a solid start and then nailed a scrap board across the open end to keep everything in place and carried the platform to it’s final location. Once it was there we could add on the last four boards. We actually didn’t get those boards added on until the very end, but they can be done once it gets there. Obviously, if you aren’t moving your platform, you can put them all on right away, we just knew it’d be too heavy for us to carry with all of them on!
Our next step was framing the four walls. Our playhouse is 4×5, and the height of each wall is 4 1/2 feet on each wall. The easiest way to build the walls is to build each wall separately, and then stand them all up and attach them to each other.
For each wall, we started by attaching the outermost vertical boards (the 4 1/2 feet ones) to the horizontal header and footer. We shot two 2” nails through each board to attach them. Once we had the basic frame in place, we added the windows and door studs. For the longer walls of the playhouse, the 5 foot ones, the back face of the house has four vertical boards, with the middle two splitter the center 20” apart with two additional 20” pieces put in horizontally to frame out the window. The front wall has a big serving window, made by having four vertical boards, two on the outer edges, and then two more with are each 18 inches from the outer edge, and a horizontal board connecting them which is 18” from the ground, which frames out the large serving area on the front of the house. You can see it’s frame in the picture below as well as how it looks when the walls start coming together:
The smaller two walls, which are four feet wide each, have almost identical framing. Each has four vertical boards, with the middle two being 14” from the outer edge. This leaves a 20” space between the two vertical boards. On both, we added a horizontal board at 10inches from the top For the right wall, we also added a board 24 inches from the floor to create a 20” square window to match the one on the backside of the house. On the other, which becomes the left side of the playhouse, we took the frame, turned it over, and cut the middle of the bottom board out, between the two vertical studs. This becomes the doorway.
Once all four sides were complete, we carried them to the platform to attach them to each other, making the main body of the playhouse.
To make sure that things are staying square and level, we started by getting the pieces in place, then nailing the bottoml boards into the deck we were building on. Next, we attached the 2x4s on each corner to each other, making sure to use a level to check and make sure weren’t putting it up crooked. Of course, we had three little “helpers” who wanted to help too but as you can see if you look past Ford’s cute smile were actually quite in the way and kept trying to run off with tools that they shouldn’t have in the first place. Get a babysitter while you’re building if you can haha
It’s important to take your time here making sure that everything is flush and straight and level. As long as you’ve built your sides correctly, everything should go smoothly when you frame it, but if you’re having problems, you should be able to push or pull the frame as you nail it, to help get it the way you need it to go. If you’re buying wood from the store, you most likely won’t have this problem, because it’s usually pretty straight, but free wood like mine is sometimes bent some from sitting outside or being cheaper grade. This is a good reason to have someone doing this whole project with you, one person has to hold the sides together while the other levels, nails, etc.
Once the walls were in place, we began to add the frame boards that would support the roof. We wanted this playhouse to have a one foot high rise from the top of our walls we had made, to the pitch of the roof. To do this we cut 2×4 boards that were attached to the horizontal studs on the right hand side of the room like you can see below. We made it easy by measuring both sides off of one, and then cutting the board for both walls at the same time (he’s comparing them in the lower picture)
From there, we added a 2X4 which runs from one of these peaks to the other, which his longer than the house’s width because we wanted it to have an overhang. We originally planned to have a three foot overhang off of the front window, with a foot off of each other side, but when we realized that by making the over hang slightly shorter, we could use just one piece of plywood per side of the roof, we modified our plan and made the roof over hang by only a foot and a half on the front, which ended up looking better anyways. If you are building a playhouse the same size, or any thing, you want to take into account how much materials you will need. You can save a lot of money by building it to fit standard building material sizes. The peak beam is 6 feet long.
We then added a beam where each vertical 2X4 stud was to support the roof, and then because the overhang would be over the sides as well, we added a small 2×4 between each of the outermost beam and the one resting on the frame of the to support the outermost beams, as you can see if you look close in the image below.
Sorry for the jump in pictures, that night we realized we needed different screws for the roof, so we started added the siding to the playhouse as we waiting on supplies, we did each thing on and off as we went. Normally I like to finish one part before I move on to the next, but we were chasing daylight.
I wanted a board and batten look, but that would be a lot of work for a playhouse, so I decided to use 1/2” plywood for the siding and then add furring strips to hide the seams and get the look I wanted. When I went to by the plywood, the store had a few sheets of T-111, an exterior grade plywood siding that has a pattern on one side, for 50% off because of some writing on it, so I grabbed that and simply put the pattered side on the inside of the playhouse. T-111 is great, durable plywood, I could get the same look I wanted, plus I liked the idea of the pattern being on the interior walls.
We simply nailed the t-111 boards to the 2x4s. If you’re doing faux-board and batten like me, try to make sure that you try and keep all seems vertical so you can just cover them with the furring strips later. We did end up with one or two small areas that we had horizontal seams but they can be caulked to fill and hidden with paint later on. Yes, we could have avoided that by buying more sheets of the plywood, but I definitely believe in saving money where you can so you can spend it on things that make a big difference later, and I didn’t think a few small seams would be too bad. We always cut to measure the siding to measure (which you should always do. Even if I gave you my dimensions for everything in this entire playhouse, chances are, somewhere you’d get slightly off while making it and you wouldn’t want all the things that come later nor to fit) but sometimes the boards were a little off and had to be shaved down a hair. Definitely one of the many perks of having your Dad help out, as I don’t mind using a saw but I’m not quite as confident or steady handed as he is.
Once the siding was all in place, we needed to cut out the openings for the windows and doors. In order to make sure we were in the right places with the saw and that the lines were straight, we went inside the playhouse and drilled a hole in the corner of each window and the door.
Then, from the outside, we used a straight edge to connect the four dots, and cut along the lines with a circular saw. In the corners where the circular saw couldn’t get a nice, flush cut, I used an oscillating multi-tool, and the boards fell right out. Any small handsaw could do the job just fine.
I wish I had taken a picture of the playhouse right after the windows were out and all of the roof beams were on, but it got dark and I didn’t forgot, but here’s one just one step further, with the plywood on the roof- it is starting to look like a little house!
We used one piece of 4X8 1/2” plywood for each side of the roof, cut to size and screwed into the supporting beams. Pretty simple and straightforward and a great foundation for roofing a playhouse.
I’ve decided to break this playhouse build up into three post- framing, roofing, and finishing/decorating. I’ll leave you here with the frame completed and tomorrow I’ll show you how I roofed it all by myself!
When we moved in our house, one of the very first projects I did was give our kitchen backsplash a makeover. Previous owners had decided to install a metal tile backsplash. It’s easy to install (goes on with special double stick tape, no joke) and is more affordable than completely gutting and retiling a wall, so I don’t blame them for using it, but the look just clashed completely with my style. The shiny-chrome look was so stark next to my more classic palette and style, however, I did love the flourish pattern on the metal tiles. It reminded me of those beautiful black and white tile bathrooms and you see in old farmhouses with the detailed tiles. I brought up painting it to a couple family members who all said that it couldn’t/shouldn’t be done, but that’s never stopped me. I had a vision and I knew I could make it work!
For supplies, I used the same wall paint that is on my Shiplap walls, it is Behr Ulta Interior Satin tinted to Bejamin Moore’s White Dove. For the slight hint of black distressing that I was envisioning, I wanted to use something easy to use and workable, like chalk paint wax, but couldn’t find it in black. I really didn’t want the brown, I thought it would just look dirty, and finally I came across Daddy Van’s Shadow Black Decorative Wax on Amazon. Black chalk paint wax is hard to find, but I tell you what, I love it. It has a much more crisp, antique look instead of the chippy/slighty dirty look. Don’t get me wrong, Annie Sloan is great, but this was exactly what I was looking for. Here’s what the backsplash, and the kitchen, looked like when we bought the house):
To go from chrome to white, first I taped off the edges around my cabinets so I wouldn’t get paint on them, and then wiped the tile down really well. This tile had been up for at least ten years, so I wanted to make sure it was free from grease and oils. I’m glad I cleaned it well because as I was cleaning, I discovered that they hadn’t actually taken the plastic protective coating off of most of it and was able to peel that off. Next, I simply rolled the white paint onto the metal tile, and cut in with a paint brush in the corners and tight spaces. I used thin coats, and it two would have been enough but I went with three to really make sure it was covered.
I let that dry for a full 24-hours, and then took a rag and dipped it into the Shadow Black Wax. This stuff was amazing to work with, so forgiving and so easy. I simply rubbed some on the high points of the tiles, rubbed it around some more, added some if it wasn’t enough, or wiped some away if it was too much. It dries very slowly so it gave me plenty of time to work with it and get it exactly how I wanted. I tried to do long strokes to make it look like it was black underneath and that the white had been worn away over time. The wax took about 24 hours to dry but I tried not to touch it for 48 hours just in case.
I love the finished look SO much more. This project only cost me $20 for the wax since I already had the white paint, and I have gotten so many compliments on it and so many questions about what the backsplash is. Weather you want to install a metal backsplash and then paint it, or paint over your existing metal tile, this is definitely an easy upgrade that can be done quickly and makes a huge difference. I did this project just under two years ago, and it still looks as good as new, cleans really easily (I use Windex or Clorox Bleach spray and have never had a problem), it’s durable, and the paint has never gotten scratches in it. I may add more black distressing at some point because I do feel like the black has lightened up (that might be because this area of our home gets direct sunlight most of the day) or maybe I just prefer more distressing now, but I will probably add more at some point, but it looks amazing still and I’m proud of my DIY backsplash makeover, now I just need to figure out a way to upgrade those countertops…
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This shop has been compensated by Collective Bias, Inc. and its advertiser. All opinions are mine alone. #BigLotsHoliday#CollectiveBias
Christmas is coming!!! Usually I wait until after Thanksgiving to get all of my pretty holiday décor out, especially since my husband doesn’t like for Christmas to overrun Thanksgiving, but he was out of town, and I was so excited about my amazing Big Lots Christmas decoration finds, that I couldn’t wait to decorate just a few areas of the house.
(that picture above is shoppable by the way! So if you see something you like, just hover over it!)
If you’re like me, you probably have already added in some pops of red to your décor as fall and Thanksgiving started coming in, and it makes for such an easy transition into Christmas. One of the main areas that I really wanted to go all out decorating this year was my mantle. A couple of months ago, I woke up one day and decided to add the faux-shiplap paneling to it, and two hours later, my mantle went from meh to a total statement piece in our downstairs living room. I couldn’t believe what a difference that little bit of wood made, and I have had this big, beautiful blank canvas just waiting for boughs of green and pops of red.
When I was shopping in Big Lots, I came across their display of Holiday lanterns and I had to have some of them. I honestly could have bought them all, they were all so beautiful, but I chose a few of my favorites to mix and match.
Aren’t they all so cute? I spent forever right there choosing which ones I was going to get and which ones would go best on my mantle. I seriously considered buying one of each! Before I put them up on my mantle though, I started off with two of these pretty, sparkly garlands that I got at Big Lots. I was tempted to buy like 10 of these things, they are so pretty and could go just about anywhere in my house for winter décor. An employee was even super helpful by getting down more boxes of them from off the top shelf so I could buy a bunch haha.
I love incorporating natural elements like pinecones into my Christmas décor, it gives that rustic, cozy feeling to my mostly white home. To give my garlands that extra something special, I also bought a couple boxes of these dainty little lights and wrapped them around my garlands. They are so thin, you can barely even seem them when they are off, but at night they give off such a pretty glow.
Next I added in my lanterns, trying to vary colors and heights to give it a mismatched, yet uniform look. I love the pretty bows and candles in the two red ones. In the wood one, I later added a red candle and more of the tiny lights for a little color and shine.
One of the first things that grabbed my eye while I was shopping at Big Lots for Christmas decorations was this reindeer head. I love the rustic vine wrapped around the antlers, and I’m always a sucker for white.
I originally planned on putting it inside the wreath shown above, but when I got home, it wouldn’t fit! Luckily, I have quite a few everyday wreaths through out my house, and just decided to borrow the one that is usually above the sink, and I’ll have the Christmas one above the sink for the holidays!
How amazing are those Big Lots finds, and I was able to do my entire mantle without going over budget, so basically what I’m saying is run to your closest Big Lots so you can get them before they’re gone! Once I had all of my Big Lots finds, I added in a few more small decorations that I had collected over the years like a little sled, my candlesticks (which are usually always on the mantle),
What do you think? Are you a classic reds and greens decorator, go with the silvers and blues, or have your own awesome holiday taste? I’d love to hear! One thing I loved about that sparkly garland is that it would match anyones holiday décor.
It looks so pretty in person. I think the lanterns are my favorite part. Once I had snuck some Christmas lanterns into the downstairs living room, I figured I was probably safe to add some red and green into the upstairs living room as well. We spend most of our time in our upstairs living room, and that is where we put our real tree and open presents on Christmas morning. There isn’t really any where up there to hang stockings, and while we were working on fencing in our yard, I had a great idea- why not build a stocking holder myself out of fence pallets? The boards are around $1.25 a piece, so they are a really great price for some pine wood.
Here’s how I did it: Easy DIY Stocking Holder
Supplies: 5 fence picket boards (more or less if you want to make yours smaller, we have 5 people but I used double hooks so we can use it still if we have more kids) 1X3 board- two 25” pieces (if you use a different amount of fence pickets, you’ll need to get a different length, multiply the number of boards you are using X5. You’ll need two boards that are that many inches [For example, I used 5 boards, so 5X5=25, I needed two 25” boards}). This is a great chance to use any scrap pallet wood you have sitting around. They are usually right around 24” (which would work just fine) and are the perfect size. 2X2 board– The length of these is going to depend on how straight you want your stand to stand up, mine were 10 inches long each before cutting them. You’ll need two (you could also use some scrap pallet wood here, I used 2X2’s because I had some scrap pieces of it) 5 Hooks (You can usually find these for like 90 cents each) 10 Screws- these need to be 1.25 inch wood screws 2 Screws- these need to be 1” wood screws. White Spray Paint
Total cost of supplies if you don’t have any of this on hand: About $20.
Step 1: Cut all of your boards. Decide how tall you want your Stocking Holder, and cut your fence boards that length. Mine is right at 40” tall, which is the perfect height. Make sure you are measuring from the picket down, so all of your boards have the cute picket at the top. For your 1X3’s, use the measurements above. For the 2X2’s, you are going to need to cut each end at a 45 degree angle using a miter saw or miter template. You want both of the long ends of the miter cut on the same side. For reference, look at my 2X2’s in the picture below. If you’re boards need sanding, run some sandpaper over them to get off any splinters or rough spots.
Step 2: Lay out your fence boards side by side, making sure to put all the good sides down. Level the top (I simply used one of my 1X3’s to level as you can see below) and make sure your gaps are even in between boards (I put my boards all right up against each other, it inevitably leaves a tiny gap and I liked that look).
Step 3: Lay your first 1X3 across the fence boards, about six inches from the top of the pickets. Screw a 1.25” screw into each board. When you’re done, lay your second 1X3 about two feet down and screw it in to each board as well.
Yay! Most of the work is done! I told you this was easy! If you want to just lean your stocking holder up against the wall you can skip the next step but I wanted mine to be freestanding, so I added some legs to hold it up. NOTE: I realized later it would have been much easier to spray paint my boards at this step and put on the hooks before adding the legs. Feel free to do steps 5 and 6 now and then come back to step 4.
Step 4: Alright, you’re gonna have to really follow along with me here, because I couldn’t take pictures of myself doing it, but I think if I show you the final product, you’ll get it. It’s simple. Stand your stocking holder up vertically. Deicide how vertical you want yours to be, I wanted mine to lean back just ever so slightly. Take one of your 2X2’s, and while your board is up, slide the 2X2 up against it so that you can see where it needs to be to hold it at that angle. Draw a straight line along the top of the 2X2. Do the same thing on the other side. Now, lay your stocking holder on the ground, hold your first 2X2 where it goes along the line you drew and screw a screw about 1.5” up the 2X2 to secure it to the holder. Do the same on the other side. Stand it up and there ya go! Yes, I do realize that I split my wood on the right side, I fixed it later. I thought I could be all sneaky using drywall screws because that’s what I had, but lesson learned. Only use wood screws in wood.
Step 5: Spray paint your stocking holder! You of course can use any white paint you have sitting around, if you’re like me, I have lots. It took me right at 3 cans of spray paint to finish this. I think rolling on some home point would work even better, but I’m all about using what you already have!
Step 6: Add your hooks, making sure that they are all even, and hanging up your stockings!
I can’t wait to see my boys faces on Christmas morning when they come out and see their stocking filled and hanging there. I love what a statement piece it makes too, and I think I’m going to use it for other holidays too. I can see little Easter baskets hanging here in the Spring.
Now you can stand back and take at look at your handiwork! I’m sure yours will turn out so cute, probably even better than mine! Add some Big Lots decorations and it’s the perfect little Holiday corner. It’d be adorable background for all your Christmas morning pictures too! So, the real questions is, how soon are you heading to Big Lots to get your décor and make this cute little display?